2012 Mercedes-Benz S600 TSBs

our customers, Mercedes-Benz USA ("MBUSA") is extending the coverage for the exhaust valve assembly on your vehicle as follows: Why the warranty extension? On certain Model Year 2011-2016 CL/CLS/S/E/ML/SL/G/GL/GLE-Class vehicles with V8 engines, the exhaust valve assembly might not work properly and result in an engine misfire and potential illumination of the check engine Malfunction Indicator Lamp ('MIL'). Any repairs under this warranty extension must be performed by an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership. If your preferred authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership performs a diagnosis and confirms that your vehicle has the issue, the repair will be covered under this extended warranty and performed at no cost to you. This extended warranty does not apply to any other components or conditions beyond the ones mentioned above, and standard warranty terms apply, including the exclusions with respect to additional expenses as identified in the Service and Warranty Information booklet.

Cause Fogging of the headlamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Note: Only implement Remedy 1 for model series 463 (from model year 2018) and model series 465. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

and/or no communication possible with VGS. Cause Transmission control unit Y3/8n4 Remedy For vehicles with 722.9 transmission: Ensure LI54.15-P-057373 is performed before replacing any component parts. After processing and complying with the above document(s): 1. Perform an ignition reset on Y3/8n4 (VGS) 2. Inspect transmission connector for loose connections, damaged wiring or pins and any other concerns If communication with the VGS cannot be established, the complete valve body ('electrohydraulic controller unit (EHS)') must be replaced. Installation of a VGS repair kit is not permitted in this case as it is not possible to transfer the necessary valve characteristics without communication with the original control unit.

(EHS) or of repair kit controller unit (VGS). Cause The wrong older A-code ("Generation EHS") is documented in VeDoc for the newly installed transmission or the newly installed electrohydraulic controller unit (EHS)/repair kit controller unit (VGS). Old VGS2 hardware A0335457332 (from quick test) New VGS3 hardware A0034460310 or A0009018008 (from quick test) Remedy Delete the old A-code and redocument the new A-code in VeDoc, then perform commissioning. A. If Diagnosis at the vehicle is possible: To determine the correct EHS item number, the currently installed EHS/VGS hardware should be read out first: In XENTRY Diagnostics via the tab "Control unit view" - "Current quick test" - "Fully integrated transmission control" - "EHS part number". Order the new EHS with this read-off item number. DAS: "Quick test" - "EGS - Electronic transmission control serial number". Order the new EHS with this read-off serial number. B. If Diagnosis at the vehicle is no longer possible, The number must be read off directly from the EHS, and the ordering process must be initiated using this number. Exception: For engine 629 with transmission 722.9, EHS A220 270 24 06 must be installed. Read-off part number is A 220 270 12 06 In this case, the following must be observed for making a correct order: Exclusively for model 219.356, 171.456 with transmission 722.906 up to and including model year 2005 (code 805) A 220 270 12 06 is no longer available --> Please install EHS A220 270 27 06 and document A92 in Vedoc If this does not work, please open a TIPS case and provide both the original EHS part number/A code and new EHS part number/A code Read-off part number + old A-code in VeDoc --> EHS item number and new A-code ("Generation EHS") J valve body plate with VGS3 old A-code A28/A29: A2202701306 + code A28/A29 --> A2202702706, delete code A28/A29 and document A92 in VeDoc A2202701406 + code A28/A29 --> A2202702706, delete code A28/A29 and document A92 in VeDoc A2202701206 + code A28/A29 --> A2202702706 delete code A28/A29 and document A92 in VeDoc O valve body plate with VGS3 old A-code A45: A2202701206 + code A45 --> A2202702906, delete code A45 and document A94 in VeDoc A2202701406 + code A45 --> A2202702906, delete code A45 and document A94 in VeDoc A2202702106 + code A45 --> A2202702906, delete code A45 and document A94 in VeDoc P valve body plate with VGS3 old A-code A46: A2202701906 + code A46 --> A2202703006, delete code A46 and document A97 in VeDoc A2202702206 + code A46 --> A2202703006, delete code A46 and document A97 in VeDoc N valve body plate with VGS3 old A-code A39: A2202701206 + code A39 --> A2202703106, delete code A39 and document A95 in VeDoc A2202701406 + code A39 --> A2202703106, delete code A39 and document A95 in VeDoc A2202701806 + code A39 --> A2202703106, delete code A39 and document A95 in VeDoc M valve body plate with VGS3 old A-code A38: A2202701406 + code A38 --> A2202703206, delete code A38 and document A96 in VeDoc A2202701906 + code A38 --> A2202703206, delete code A38 and document A96 in VeDoc K valve body plate VGS3 with old A-code A30: Old A-code A30 --> delete code A30 and document A93 in VeDoc N valve body plate VGS3 with old A-code A27: Old A-code A27 --> delete code A27 and document A95 in VeDoc

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Cause Silicate granulate may have escaped from a damaged bag in the expansion reservoir (not visible), reducing the coolant flow in the heater heat exchanger (see picture). Remedy With the aforementioned complaint, make sure that the cooling circuit is inspected for silicate residues after all standard tests are completed. The silicate residues tend to accumulate upstream of the shutoff valve for the heater hot water pulsed valve. If there are silicate residues in the coolant, the engine must be flushed thoroughly. To make sure that all silicate residues are removed from the cooling circuit, the following parts must also be replaced (cleaning of these components is not sufficient): Coolant expansion reservoir, radiator, oil/water heat exchanger (oil cooler), heater valve, heat exchanger of heater, coolant and, if installed, the electric water pump for the residual heat utilization system. Determine the parts for the respective vehicle in the EPC.

Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy AMG brake systems are designed for high loads. This can result in noises under certain operating conditions and driving styles. Please refer to the Operator's Manual for further information such as care and maintenance instructions (washing vehicle directly after heavy use and using approved cleaning agents). These are dependent on speed, brake pressure or ambient conditions such as temperature and air humidity. 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the model series in question, and if so, work through it and then continue with1b. b) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). c) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. 1. Replace damaged components as necessary and re-assess noise concern. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3-4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re-assessing the noise concern. e) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). 2. Specific Axle Work: NOTE: If brake pad has a metal backing plate, there is no need to affix the adhesive film. a) If the noises are coming from the front axle => Affix linings with adhesive film (see attachments for front axle). If backing plate is installed on pads, move to step 3. 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. For 6 piston calipers, only in the area of the center piston. For other piston caliper configurations less than 6, apply where the piston(s) makes contact with the back of the pad. 4. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle => Affix linings with adhesive film and grease the lining as per the specification (see attachments for rear axle). 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Cleaning all contact points on brake lining and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Grease contact points (red areas) between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with heat-resistant lubricating paste. 4. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) Brake the vehicle 15 times with a brake pressure of approx. 30 bar (have the passenger read it out using XENTRY) from 62 MPH to 30 MPH (no emergency stops and no braking in the ESP control range). Maintain a cooling distance of approx. 1 mile between brake applications. d) Finally drive approx. 3 miles to allow the system to cool. e) Reassess noise.

Cause Frictional vibrations Remedy AMG brake systems are designed for high loads. This can result in noises under certain operating conditions and driving styles. Please refer to the Operator's Manual for further information such as care and maintenance instructions (washing vehicle directly after heavy use and using approved cleaning agents). These are dependent on speed, brake pressure or ambient conditions such as temperature and air humidity. 1. Beginning Diagnostics: a) Check whether, apart from this document, an additional document exists for the model series in question, and if so, work through it. b) Check whether the complaint can be reproduced and at which axle or side the noises occur (ideally together with the customer while driving). c) Check the affected system for component wear, mechanical damage or localized overheating damage. 1. Replace damaged components as necessary and re-assess noise concern. d) Secure vehicle on a lift. 1. Start the engine and depress the brake pedal 3-4 times. 2. Check each wheel to see if they turn freely by hand. 3. If a wheel is not turning freely by hand, this needs to be addressed prior to re-assessing the noise concern. e) Assess condition of brake rotors and pads per WIS and visually (i.e. long periods of stagnation, etc...). 2. Specific Axle Work: a) If the noises are coming from the front axle => Affix linings with adhesive film (see attachments for front axle). 1. Remove brake linings of front axle. 2. Clean all contact points on brake lining and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. For 6 piston calipers, only in the area of the center piston. For other piston caliper configurations less than 6, apply where the piston(s) makes contact with the back of the pad. 4. After installing the brake linings, actuate the brake for 30 seconds. b) If the noises are coming from the rear axle => Affix linings with adhesive film and grease the lining as per the specification (see attachments for rear axle). 1. Remove brake pads of rear axle. 2. Cleaning all contact points on brake lining and brake caliper/carrier. 3. Grease contact points (red areas) between brake lining and guide of brake caliper with heat-resistant lubricating paste. 4. Clean bonding surface (where pistons contact back of brake pad). Apply adhesive film to the backplate of the piston-side brake lining. 5. IMPORTANT: Be absolutely certain to not allow paste between friction surfaces of the pad and disc! 3. Brake Bedding Process: a) Before trip, the mileage incurred must be clarified with the customer (approx. 30 miles). b) Select a suitable route so speeds of approximately 65 MPH can be achieved. c) Brake the vehicle 15 times with a brake pressure of approx. 30 bar (have the passenger read it out using XENTRY) from 62 MPH to 30 MPH (no emergency stops and no braking in the ESP control range). Maintain a cooling distance of approx. 1 mile between brake applications. d) Finally drive approx. 3 miles to allow the system to cool. e) Reassess noise.

and/or no communication possible with VGS. Cause Transmission control unit Y3/8n4 Remedy It is important that LI54.15-P-057373 is processed before replacing any component parts (transmission 722.9). After processing and complying with the above documents, perform a reset on the transmission control unit Y3/8n4 (VGS) (ignition reset), check that the transmission connector is seated correctly and inspect the PINs for concerns. If communication with the VGS cannot be established afterwards, the component part 'electrohydraulic controller unit (EHS)' must be replaced, as it is not possible to transfer the valve characteristics under the above-mentioned conditions. Installation of a VGS repair kit is not permitted in this case.

Cause Fogging of the rear lamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. This does not lead to any technical impairment of the rear lamps. Remedy Rear lamp: Remedy 1: Clearing fogged/condensed rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) Note: Do not wash the vehicle or subject it to high-pressure cleaning before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the trunk. 4. Switch on the exterior lighting. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation -> a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (defogging progress). Note: -If no reduction in the degree of fogging is visible, the rear lamp is defective and must be replaced. -It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely some residual fogging may remain. Fogging does not impair the functionality or the service life of the rear lamps. -Simultaneous fogging of multiple component parts indicates extreme climatic conditions and also does not impair the functionality or the service life of the rear lamps. Remedy 2: You can recognize a defective rear lamp as follows: 1. Check the rear lamps to ensure that no external damage is present, and that the differential aeration cells and the diaphragm are present and correctly seated. -> If there are signs of external damage on the rear lamp, the component parts must be replaced as per WIS instructions. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. -> If moisture/corrosion/etc. is present, the component part must be replaced as per WIS instructions. 3. Check for leak tightness -> Close all openings with Terostat IX or similar and establish and stabilize via an overpressure (4050 mbar) via the plug. -> In the event of a sudden pressure drop, the component part must be replaced as per WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the rear lamps does not constitute a warranty or goodwill case.

that on certain Model Year 2011-2018 C-Class, E-Class, S-Class, G-Class, CL, CLS, ML, GL, GLE, GLS, GLC, SL, and AMG GT vehicles with 6 and 8 cylinder gasoline engines, the software of the engine control unit may not meet current specifications. Under certain conditions, the catalyst heating might not work. Therefore, an Emission Service Campaign is being conducted to remedy the situation. Our records indicate that your vehicle is included in the affected population of vehicles.

occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Headlamps comply with all applicable standards. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for a defect. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A Damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. Open ventilation system: LI82.10-P-064766. Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

C-Class, E-Class, S-Class, G-Class, CL, CLS, ML, GL, GLE, GLS, GLC, SL, and AMG GT (204, 205, 207, 212, 213, 217, 221, 222, 463, 216, 218, 166, 292, 253, 231, and 190 platforms) vehicles with 6 and 8 cylinder gasoline engines, the software of the engine control unit may not meet current specifications. Under certain conditions, the catalyst heating might not work. MBUSA will conduct an Emission Service Campaign. An authorized Mercedes-Benz dealer will update the engine control unit software on the affected vehicles. Affected customers will be notified via First Class letter to have the update performed on their vehicle.

Cause Fogging of the rear lamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. This does not lead to any technical impairment of the rear lamps. Remedy Rear lamp: Remedy 1: Clearing fogged/condensed rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) Note: Do not wash the vehicle or subject it to high-pressure cleaning before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the trunk. 4. Switch on the exterior lighting. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation -> a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (defogging progress).

2012 S-Class (221 platforms) vehicles, the injector codes might no longer be stored in the engine control unit software after installation of the Approved Emission Modification (AEM). The cached injector code may have been lost due to a communication error during installation of the AEM. Customers may experience the MIL illumination or in rare cases, increased engine noise or rough running. MBUSA will conduct an Emission Service Campaign in which an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealer will recode the correct injector codes to the engine control unit on the affected vehicles

2009-2012 GL-Class, ML-Class, R-Class, and S-Class (164/166, 251, 221 platforms) vehicles, the coding for the engine control unit does not correspond to the specifications as part of the BlueTEC update diesel field measure (aka Emission Modification). This could result in the VIN number not being read out from the vehicle. This could affect the vehicle smog check. MBUSA will conduct an Emission Service Campaign in which an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealer will update the SCN coding for the engine control unit on the affected vehicles.

Fault code P045600 "Very fine leak" or P044200 "Fine leak" stored in engine control unit.

1. Left cylinder head: Oil passage plug hole on left beside mechanical vacuum pump. 2. Right cylinder head: Oil passage plug hole below high-pressure pump housing.

Fault code 20BE1B and/or 20BD1B (The heating element of the AdBlue tank has a malfunction) is logged in the Blue-Tec control unit.

This complaint is accompanied by the following symptoms: - Illumination of the trunk lid control button (S62/26) fails. - The ACTUAL value* of the trunk lid lock main catch switch (A85/5s1) indicates "closed" although the trunk lid is open. - Knocking against the trunk lid lock (A85/5) causes the light of the trunk lid control button (S62/26) to flicker and the ACTUAL value* of the trunk lid lock main catch switch (A85/5s1) to jump back and forth between the values "open" and closed". * The ACTUAL value of the trunk lid lock main catch switch (A85/5s1) can be found under the following path in Xentry Diagnostics: Xentry Diagnostics => Control unit => SAM-H (N10/8) => ACTUAL values => Trunk lid => Trunk lid lock main catch switch

CLUSTER DISPLAYS WARNING MESSAGE POWER STEERING MALFUNCTION, SERVICE REQUIRED. STEERING SYSTEM IS SLUGGISH. MODEL 117, 156, 176, 242, 246.

MODEL 2012 172, 212, 218, 207, 204. *PE

One of the fault codes C219700 or 630900 is logged in the ESP control unit (N30/4).

ventilation switched on

The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Cause The tension-releasing jolt in the drivetrain originates as a result of the "release" of energy stored when braking through the force-free switch after stopping. It is suspected that the longitudinal bearing is being placed under tension here as a result of the vehicle "dropping off". Remedy 1. Mark the installation position of the joint prior to the removal (picture a+b). This is important for vehicles with a weighted drivetrain ex factory to ensure correct installation after operations have been completed. 2. Clean and degrease propeller shaft toothing. The toothing must be free of grease, e.g. through the use of a brake cleaner. Do not use wire brushes, else the surface could be damaged (picture c). 3. Coat propeller shaft toothing with A 000 989 16 08 Antifriction coating. Coat the entirety, ensuring that the subsurface is no longer visible. When doing so, only coat the outer toothing. Ensure that the coat is not too thick, otherwise the coating could chip (picture d). 4. Observe the drying time of at least 1 hour. 5. Lightly grease the propeller shaft toothing at the outer and inner toothing with A 001 989 44 51 12 Grease (picture e).

ENGI- NE 278 and TRANSMISSION 722.9 without code 835/498

Cause Under analysis. Remedy To narrow down the cause, first of all remove the door trim. If the noise continues to occur even with the door trim removed, then continue the diagnosis working towards the speaker and if necessary, create a TIPS case with an informative video as an attachment. Note: Please refer to this document in the warranty claim and, once diagnosis is completed, select the damage code depending on the component part that is causing the issue. If the noise stops when the door trim is removed, please proceed in accordance with LI72.10P067691. Information: In this case, do not use a damage code for the speakers in the warranty claim!

Cause Under analysis. Remedy To narrow down the cause, first of all remove the door trim. If the noise continues to occur even with the door trim removed, then continue the diagnosis working towards the speaker and if necessary, create a TIPS case with an informative video as an attachment. Information: Please refer to this document in the warranty claim and, after completing diagnosis, select the damage code corresponding to the component part that caused the problem. If the noise stops when the door trim is removed, please proceed in accordance with LI72.10-P-067691. Information: In this case, do not use a damage code for the speakers in the warranty claim!

message "SOS - service not activated" appears on the instrument cluster. In addition, the following two conditions are also met: HERMES (N112/9) control unit: event code B15CE00 is ACTIVE and STORED (A+S) Vehicle Documentation System: For the HERMES control unit, the EID1, EID2, ICCID, IMEI, IMSI, TELNR fields in the "Identification/Serial number" column have the value "-" Cause Still under analysis Remedy Recommission the HERMES control unit (N112/9) with XENTRY Diagnosis 03/2026 and add-on 33399 installed or carry out the procedure with a newer version of XENTRY Diagnosis: XENTRY "N112/9 - Control unit for telematics services (HERMES)" -> "Adaptations" -> "Control unit commissioning" -> "Commissioning of previously installed control unit"

interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: It is recommended to replace the cover caps. The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicles warranty in any way.

interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: It is recommended to replace the cover caps. The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicles warranty in any way.

informing them that they need to have an i-button call performed to ensure their mbrace device has registered with the Verizon Telematics systems. If the i-button call failed or if the customer was unable to perform the i-button call, the mbrace agent instructed the customer to make an appointment with their dealer to have the issue corrected and/or i-button call performed. The vehicles impacted range from model year 2002 to 2014.

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

Washer fluid reservoir itself. 2. Seal on washer fluid pump/washer fluid reservoir. 3. Washer fluid pump. 3.1. Distributor housing leaks. 3.2. Pump fitting leaks. 3.3. Washer fluid hose cannot be snapped into place on pump fitting. 3.4. Washer fluid hose will not stay on pump fitting, although connector OK. 4. Washer fluid line. 4.1 Connector will not stay on pump fitting because it is broken. 4.2 Sealing ring in connector missing. 4.3 Sealing ring in connector fitted, but deformed and therefore leaks. 4.4 Damage to washer line by animal. 5. Seal on heating washer fluid reservoir/washer fluid reservoir. Remedy Replace defective component parts only. Do not replace any adjacent component parts that are intact. Note: Repair kits for washer line hoses do exist to allow patches for line damage.

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamps or Front Fog Lamps Leaking or Fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (picture 3). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is not leaky and the problem is down to natural physical fogging. If a pressure drop of more than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Note: Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. See: LI82.10-P-064766 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

transition between the instrument panel and the center console.

Due to the vent openings, the lamp unit is an "open system". This means that acidic gases, moisture, dirt and exhaust gases can penetrate it. This can result in deposits on the diffuser and lens. Check housing cover of lamp unit for natural fogging or dew as per GI82.10-P-009047. . 1. If a reduction in the degree of fogging is visible, the desiccant packs can be used once the condensation has completely evaporated. 1.1. Order the required service covers by referring to the variant overview. 1.2. Remove lamp unit 1.3. Remove all grommets from vent openings. 1.4. Seal vent openings with sealing profile. Important: All openings must be sealed carefully for the pressure compensation membrane to work properly! 1.5. Remove existing service cover 1.6. Place desiccant packs in new service covers and bolt down 1.7. Stick new diaphragm onto specified surface on service cover [picture of service cover] Note: The bonding surface must be clean and dry. 06

Transportability of High-Voltage Batteries Form? accompanied by: , the removed part, the quick test printout, the BMS control unit log printout, the repair documentation and with all required documentation listed in Section E of the Form.

rear) Bubble formation in one or more seats with massage/multicontour/dynamic seat modules (driver, front passenger and rear)

The system becomes operational again after an ignition change. Fault code 9E8900 is stored.

NOTE: Although the symptom is similar to a tire or wheel vibration, it is usually readily noticeable that it is distinctly different if it happens at all times or only while braking. Cause Although the cause of the vibration is most likely due to excessive lateral runout on the rotor or hub/wheel bearing, the system as a whole needs to be checked for other possible contributors. 1. Prior collision damage. 2. Excessive vehicle sitting times without rotating components. 3. Wheel bearing/hub lateral runout. 4. Wheel mating interface has been overtightened (did not follow WIS torque procedures). 5. Mating interfaces have been excessively modified (painted, gouged, bent, etc...). Remedy Read through the entire attached worksheet prior to performing. After performing, please review the final page and perform work accordingly. NOTE: This document is not preauthorization or otherwise dealing with warranty. This is intended for diagnostic purposes only. If there are any questions on how to proceed OR The work sheet has been performed and the vehicle has returned with the same concern. Please perform the measurements as seen in the worksheet again and open a TIPS case to the Body, Chassis, and Entertainment team.

Cause Due to its outlet openings, the headlamp is an "open system". This means that acidic gases, moisture, dirt and exhaust gases can penetrate into the headlamp. This can lead to the formation of condensation on the lens of the headlamp. The headlamps comply with all applicable US standards and regulations. Remedy Check housing cover of lamp unit for natural fogging or condensation as per LI82.10-P-078301. If a reduction in the degree of fogging is visible, the desiccant packs can be used once the condensation has completely evaporated. Note: Order service covers and desiccant packs based on the validity description. 1. Remove headlamps. 2. Remove all grommets from outlet openings. 3. Seal vent openings with sealing profile. Important: All openings must be sealed carefully for the pressure compensation diaphragm to work properly! 4. Remove existing service cover. 5. Place desiccant packs into the new service covers and bolt down (Picture_01). 6. Glue the new diaphragm onto the intended surface at the service cover (Picture_02). Note: The bonding surface must be clean and dry. 7. Attach service cover with desiccant pack at headlamp. 8. Install headlamp. To ensure that the desiccant pack (absorption) acts effectively, the headlamp has to be air-sealed. Observe or check the following points for this: 1. Seals at the central connector must all be present and correctly fitted (Picture_03). 2. The new transparent diaphragm must be correctly bonded (Picture_04). 3. Check headlamp housing for any external damage.

The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

squeaking, chattering, shuddering B: The windshield is not wiped completely (streaking) C: During the downward movement water is pulled back onto the windshield from the A-pillar (Figure 1) D: After windshield cleaning, water keeps spraying onto the windshield for several wipe cycles (Figure 2) A1: The windshield and wiper blades are contaminated with residues from car washing facilities, identifiable by the water beading. The resulting differences in the friction values between the wiper blades and the windshield can excite the wiper blades to vibrate. Note: It is mostly wax residue from the washer system, but also water-repellent nano-particle coating for paint and/or silicone-based washer fluid, that could cause this problem. A partially dry windshield also has different friction values, which can likewise result in squeaking of the wiper blades A2: The wiper blades are worn by mechanical damage (wiper lip damaged by ice or insect debris, or deformed by long periods of disuse). A3: Incorrect angle of incidence of the wiper arms to the windshield. Because of this, the rubber lip of the wiper blade may not flip over at the reversal point. Cause B: B1: Wax/ dirt residues on the windshield B2: Wiper blades deformed or worn B3: Downforce of wiper arm not OK (Figure 3) Cause C: Water is pulled back onto the windshield by the differential pressure created as the wiper arm moves downwards. Cause D: Washer water collects in the fastening of the wiper blade and is blown onto the windshield by the airstream over several wipe cycles. Note and supporting information: Wiper blades are wear parts which, even when "not used" for long periods (kept in park position), may become permanently deformed and damaged. Further stresses on the rubber wiper blade arise due to various environmental influences which progressively change the effectiveness of the rubber wiper blade and accelerate the aging process. Due to the natural aging process and wear, the wiper blades should be replaced twice a year, preferably in Spring and Fall (see operator's manual). Remedy Remedy A: A1: Cleaning entire windshield with A 000 986 40 71. A2: Checking water's flow behavior after windshield has been cleaned (see Video 1). If, after cleaning, there are still areas with water beading, then the cleaning process must be carried out again until a rejection reaction is no longer present. Note: On the vehicle in the video (Video 1), water still beads on the bottom left of the windshield. The windshield is still not properly clean, even though it appears to be clean. The windshield is only properly clean when there are no more areas on the windshield where water beads. A3: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades. Important: Only exchange wiper blades if windshield no longer has water-repellent areas Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. Remedy B: B1: Clean windshield with intensive cleaner A 000 986 40 71. Important: Do not clean the wiper blades otherwise the graphite coating will be damaged. B2: Replace wiper blades with genuine wiper blades Note: Replacement of wiper blades is not covered under warranty and can be replaced at the expense of the customer. B3: Check the wiper arm for excessive resistance in the bearing. Restore mobility or replace wiper arm if necessary. Remedy C: Problem inherent in design for which there is no technical remedy. Exception: X204 up to 02/2014. In these vehicles, it is possible to install the design configuration of vehicles as of 02/2014. This includes wiper arms (styled arms) with improved behavior in this respect. It is also necessary to replace the wiper blades because the styled arms feature a Top Lock connection (previously Side Lock).

The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

periods of time (pressure marks). Objects wedged between the seat backrest and seat cushion (e.g. seat belt buckle). Light initial creases due to vehicle handling. Light creases in the outer covers originating from the production process (missing finish). Heat treatment of the seat covers using heat gun and plastic wedge. Be very careful to not overheat the seat material!

Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC (MBUSA) has entered into a settlement regarding claims relating to alleged mold and mildew type odors originating from the HVAC system in certain Mercedes-Benz vehicles. As part of the settlement, MBUSA has agreed to offer sliding-scale warranty coverage for certain vehicles diagnosed as having mold or mildew type odors originating from the HVAC system?although that coverage will not take effect until the settlement is judicially approved and other events occur; likely not until December 7, 2020 at the earliest (see below). If the settlement becomes effective, coverage will include cleaning of the evaporator and replacement of the HVAC filters

Topic only reported from outer wheel until now.