2007 Mercedes Benz S550 TSBs

occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Cause Silicate granulate may have escaped from a damaged bag in the expansion reservoir (not visible), reducing the coolant flow in the heater heat exchanger (see picture). Remedy With the aforementioned complaint, make sure that the cooling circuit is inspected for silicate residues after all standard tests are completed. The silicate residues tend to accumulate upstream of the shutoff valve for the heater hot water pulsed valve. If there are silicate residues in the coolant, the engine must be flushed thoroughly. To make sure that all silicate residues are removed from the cooling circuit, the following parts must also be replaced (cleaning of these components is not sufficient): Coolant expansion reservoir, radiator, oil/water heat exchanger (oil cooler), heater valve, heat exchanger of heater, coolant and, if installed, the electric water pump for the residual heat utilization system. Determine the parts for the respective vehicle in the EPC.

Cause Fogging of the rear lamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. This does not lead to any technical impairment of the rear lamps. Remedy Rear lamp: Remedy 1: Clearing fogged/condensed rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) Note: Do not wash the vehicle or subject it to high-pressure cleaning before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the trunk. 4. Switch on the exterior lighting. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation -> a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (defogging progress). Note: -If no reduction in the degree of fogging is visible, the rear lamp is defective and must be replaced. -It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely some residual fogging may remain. Fogging does not impair the functionality or the service life of the rear lamps. -Simultaneous fogging of multiple component parts indicates extreme climatic conditions and also does not impair the functionality or the service life of the rear lamps. Remedy 2: You can recognize a defective rear lamp as follows: 1. Check the rear lamps to ensure that no external damage is present, and that the differential aeration cells and the diaphragm are present and correctly seated. -> If there are signs of external damage on the rear lamp, the component parts must be replaced as per WIS instructions. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. -> If moisture/corrosion/etc. is present, the component part must be replaced as per WIS instructions. 3. Check for leak tightness -> Close all openings with Terostat IX or similar and establish and stabilize via an overpressure (4050 mbar) via the plug. -> In the event of a sudden pressure drop, the component part must be replaced as per WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the rear lamps does not constitute a warranty or goodwill case.

occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Headlamps comply with all applicable standards. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for a defect. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A Damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. Open ventilation system: LI82.10-P-064766. Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Cause Fogging of the rear lamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. This does not lead to any technical impairment of the rear lamps. Remedy Rear lamp: Remedy 1: Clearing fogged/condensed rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) Note: Do not wash the vehicle or subject it to high-pressure cleaning before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the trunk. 4. Switch on the exterior lighting. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation -> a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (defogging progress).

Fault code P045600 "Very fine leak" or P044200 "Fine leak" stored in engine control unit.

Fault code 20BE1B and/or 20BD1B (The heating element of the AdBlue tank has a malfunction) is logged in the Blue-Tec control unit.

This complaint is accompanied by the following symptoms: - Illumination of the trunk lid control button (S62/26) fails. - The ACTUAL value* of the trunk lid lock main catch switch (A85/5s1) indicates "closed" although the trunk lid is open. - Knocking against the trunk lid lock (A85/5) causes the light of the trunk lid control button (S62/26) to flicker and the ACTUAL value* of the trunk lid lock main catch switch (A85/5s1) to jump back and forth between the values "open" and closed". * The ACTUAL value of the trunk lid lock main catch switch (A85/5s1) can be found under the following path in Xentry Diagnostics: Xentry Diagnostics => Control unit => SAM-H (N10/8) => ACTUAL values => Trunk lid => Trunk lid lock main catch switch

*PE

THE RESISTANCE OF THE ELECTRICAL LINE FROM DC/DC CONVERTER CONTROL UNIT N83/1 TO GROUND POINT W3/9 IS TOO HIGH IN THE DC/DC CONVERTER CONTROL UNIT. *PE

INSUFFICIENT VALVE CURRENT IN MODELS SERIES 211, 219; FC5260 DRAIN VALVE OPEN CIRCUIT OR INSUFFICIENT VALVE CURRENT IN MODEL 221; FC5250 DRAIN OPEN CIRCUIT OR INSUFFICIENT VALVE CURRENT IN MODEL SERIES 251, 164. DEFECTIVE CONNECTING CABLES TO DRAIN VALVE AT AIRMATIC COMPRESSOR. THIS RESULTS IN THE SETTING OF THE FAULT CODES. NO MODEL YEARS LISTED. *PE

MERCEDES-BENZ MODEL C230, C280, C350, SLK280, SLK350, CLK350, CLK550, E350, E550, CLS550, S600, AND SL550. EQUIPPED WITH M272 ENGINE OR M273 ENGINE. *NJ UPDATED 8/28/08. *PE

*KB

MERCEDES BENZ. MODEL S550. *KB UPDATED 6/4/08. *NJ

SOFTWARE AS REQUIRED (M273 ENGINE). *KB

*KB

*KB

ventilation switched on

MODELS 203, 211, 220. *PE

THE V BELT UPPER GUIDE PULLEY OPTIMIZED FOR NOISE REDUCTION IS AVAILABLE. THE DEALER WILL REPLACE UPPER GUIDE PULLEY AT THE NEXT WORKSHOP VISIT. *PE

ALL MODEL 221 (221.171, 176, 179, 186, 177) VEHICLES, EQUIPPED WITH SA CODE 233 (DISTRONIC PLUS) AND 806 (MODIFICATION YEAR 2006). MODEL YEARS UNKNOWN. *PE

*KB

The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).

The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

ENGI- NE 278 and TRANSMISSION 722.9 without code 835/498

MODEL SERIES 204 (WITH CODES 299 AND 800), 207, 212. SEAT BELT CAN ONLY BE PULLED OUT WITH GREAT EFFORT. AT THE SAME TIME A NOISE CAN BE HEARD FROM THE REVERSIBLE REEL TENSIONER GEARING. CUSTOMER CONTINUOUSLY PULLED ON SEAT BELT STRAP WHILE ADJUSTING THE FIT OF THE BELT AFTER BUCKLING UP (TO REDUCE THE SLACK). THIS CAUSED THE DRIVE OF THE REVERSIBLE REEL TENSIONER TO REMAIN ENGAGED. *PE UPDATED 4/26/12. *KB UPDATED 5/22/2012. *JS

*PE

*KB

Transportability of High-Voltage Batteries Form? accompanied by: , the removed part, the quick test printout, the BMS control unit log printout, the repair documentation and with all required documentation listed in Section E of the Form.

rear) Bubble formation in one or more seats with massage/multicontour/dynamic seat modules (driver, front passenger and rear)

The system becomes operational again after an ignition change. Fault code 9E8900 is stored.

*RM UPDATED 2/15/13. *PE

THE MOUNTING BOLT SHEARS OFF WHEN RETIGHTENED AT THE HV CONNECTION TO THE HV BATTERY. EXCESSIVE STRESS ON MOUNTING BOLT DUE TO FAILURE TO COMPLY WITH TIGHTENING TORQUE OF 5NM. MODELS 221.095/221.195(HYBRID). NO MODEL YEARS LISTED. *PE

THE SEAT ADJUSTER WITH INTEGRATED WSS SENSORS (PEN SYSTEM) INSTALLED UP IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE UP TO MODEL YEAR 09. ONLY THE NEW GENERATION OF WSS SYSTEM (BLADDER SYSTEM) IS NOW AVAILABLE AS IN MODEL 216. CONVERSION TO NEW GENERATION OF WSS SYSTEM. *PE

*NJ

*NJ

MODEL 221.171 AND 221.186. MODEL YEARS UNKNOWN. *PE

MODEL 221.171/186 (S550 (2007) AND S550 4 MATIC (2008). *PE

MERCEDES-BENZ S550 (YEAR UNKNOWN). *NJ

*KB UPDATED 3/5/09. *PE

*KB

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamp/front fog lamp leaky or fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (Figure 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (Figure 3). (Figure 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Figure 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. Observe the following documents for installation of desiccant packs: LI82.10-P-078302 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

Washer fluid reservoir itself. 2. Seal on washer fluid pump/washer fluid reservoir. 3. Washer fluid pump. 3.1. Distributor housing leaks. 3.2. Pump fitting leaks. 3.3. Washer fluid hose cannot be snapped into place on pump fitting. 3.4. Washer fluid hose will not stay on pump fitting, although connector OK. 4. Washer fluid line. 4.1 Connector will not stay on pump fitting because it is broken. 4.2 Sealing ring in connector missing. 4.3 Sealing ring in connector fitted, but deformed and therefore leaks. 4.4 Damage to washer line by animal. 5. Seal on heating washer fluid reservoir/washer fluid reservoir. Remedy Replace defective component parts only. Do not replace any adjacent component parts that are intact. Note: Repair kits for washer line hoses do exist to allow patches for line damage.

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamps or Front Fog Lamps Leaking or Fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (picture 3). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is not leaky and the problem is down to natural physical fogging. If a pressure drop of more than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Note: Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. See: LI82.10-P-064766 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

transition between the instrument panel and the center console.

OPENING LEFT/RIGHT REAR DOOR FROM OUTSIDE, HANDLE DOES NOT RETURN TO REST POSITION. OUTSIDE LEFT/RIGHT REAR DOOR HANDLE DOES NOT OPERATE CORRECTLY. MODEL YEARS UNKNOWN. *PE

MODEL YEAR UNKNOWN. *NJ

interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: It is recommended to replace the cover caps. The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicles warranty in any way.

interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: It is recommended to replace the cover caps. The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicles warranty in any way.

informing them that they need to have an i-button call performed to ensure their mbrace device has registered with the Verizon Telematics systems. If the i-button call failed or if the customer was unable to perform the i-button call, the mbrace agent instructed the customer to make an appointment with their dealer to have the issue corrected and/or i-button call performed. The vehicles impacted range from model year 2002 to 2014.

THE SPARE TIRE WELL COVER MAY NOT HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ON SUBJECT VEHICLES. MODEL 221, MODEL YEARS 2007 AND 2008. *PE UPDATED 9/18/09. *PE

Cause Due to its outlet openings, the headlamp is an "open system". This means that acidic gases, moisture, dirt and exhaust gases can penetrate into the headlamp. This can lead to the formation of condensation on the lens of the headlamp. The headlamps comply with all applicable US standards and regulations. Remedy Check housing cover of lamp unit for natural fogging or condensation as per LI82.10-P-078301. If a reduction in the degree of fogging is visible, the desiccant packs can be used once the condensation has completely evaporated. Note: Order service covers and desiccant packs based on the validity description. 1. Remove headlamps. 2. Remove all grommets from outlet openings. 3. Seal vent openings with sealing profile. Important: All openings must be sealed carefully for the pressure compensation diaphragm to work properly! 4. Remove existing service cover. 5. Place desiccant packs into the new service covers and bolt down (Picture_01). 6. Glue the new diaphragm onto the intended surface at the service cover (Picture_02). Note: The bonding surface must be clean and dry. 7. Attach service cover with desiccant pack at headlamp. 8. Install headlamp. To ensure that the desiccant pack (absorption) acts effectively, the headlamp has to be air-sealed. Observe or check the following points for this: 1. Seals at the central connector must all be present and correctly fitted (Picture_03). 2. The new transparent diaphragm must be correctly bonded (Picture_04). 3. Check headlamp housing for any external damage.

*RM

CONCENTRATED ACID BASED CLEANERS ARE USED. ONCE THE CORROSION PROTECTION IS DAMAGED OR REMOVED THE BRAKE COMPONENTS AND OR HARDWARE CAN BEGIN TO CORRODE. INCLUDE ALL MODELS AND MODEL YEARS. *PE

MODELS S63, S65, S550, S600. MODEL YEAR UNKNOWN. *NJ

Topic only reported from outer wheel until now.

NO MODEL YEARS GIVEN. ALSO INCLUDED MODELS 168 AND 172. *JS

*PE

*NJ

periods of time (pressure marks). Objects wedged between the seat backrest and seat cushion (e.g. seat belt buckle). Light initial creases due to vehicle handling. Light creases in the outer covers originating from the production process (missing finish). Heat treatment of the seat covers using heat gun and plastic wedge. Be very careful to not overheat the seat material!

DIRT DEPOSITS ON THE SEAT BELT GUIDE DUE TO SOILED SEAT BELT. ALSO INCLUDED MODELS 169, F CELL, 246, AND 231. NO MODEL YEARS GIVEN. *JS

The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

SUSPENSION EXTREMELY STIFF AFTER RESTART AND LEVEL SWITCH NONFUNCTIONAL. MODEL YEAR UNKNOWN. *NJ

*NJ

*RM

MODELS 164, 211, 219, 221 AND 251. INCLUDED 4MATIC, AMG (COMPRESSOR) AMG, BLUETEC AND WAGON. MODEL YEARS UNKNOWN. *PE UPDATED 9/18/09. *PE