2006 Mercedes Benz Cls500 TSBs

occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing of fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps on electric vehicles: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). 2. Connect battery backup via a charger. 3. Open the front-end flap and ensure sufficient ventilation. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in condensation, check the headlamp for malfunctions. (see Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A defective headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness according to LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. Note: With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. Open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078302 Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. **NOTE - As of Sept 2025 the pressure testing tool is not finalized and may require modifications to fit properly. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy Check for external damage: You can identify a damaged headlamp in the following way: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent, then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: External damage to the headlamp does not present a warranty or goodwill case. 1. Clear fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). 7. If the condensation has disappeared, nothing else has to be done. Note: If defrosting has been performed, you can skip the first step. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. All vents have to be sealed with sealing compound and the existing diaphragm with the stamp (picture 3 [3]). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged (picture 6). If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is tight and there is natural physical condensation. If a higher pressure drop than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. If the pressure test is not passed, the headlamp is leaky. If the cause cannot be rectified, the headlamp must be replaced. Note: If the headlamp is replaced, no dry packs may be installed on the new replacement headlamp. AR82.10-P-5455WT was created for the pressure test. This AR can be used as a reference manual for all closed headlamps. In the event of an open headlamp system, the vent ducts must be sealed before the pressure test.

occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Remedy NOTE: If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for damage. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078896 The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions.

Cause Silicate granulate may have escaped from a damaged bag in the expansion reservoir (not visible), reducing the coolant flow in the heater heat exchanger (see picture). Remedy With the aforementioned complaint, make sure that the cooling circuit is inspected for silicate residues after all standard tests are completed. The silicate residues tend to accumulate upstream of the shutoff valve for the heater hot water pulsed valve. If there are silicate residues in the coolant, the engine must be flushed thoroughly. To make sure that all silicate residues are removed from the cooling circuit, the following parts must also be replaced (cleaning of these components is not sufficient): Coolant expansion reservoir, radiator, oil/water heat exchanger (oil cooler), heater valve, heat exchanger of heater, coolant and, if installed, the electric water pump for the residual heat utilization system. Determine the parts for the respective vehicle in the EPC.

occur under certain climatic conditions. It does not lead to any technical impairment of the headlamp. Headlamps comply with all applicable standards. If a pressure compensation diaphragm is fitted in the housing cover, then the lamp unit is a "closed system". Remedy Headlamp: Remedy 1 Clearing fogged/condensed LED headlamps and LED rear lamps: 1. Drive vehicle into workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) and connect the exhaust extraction. Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the hood or trunk. 4. Switch on the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Clearing fogged/condensed halogen/xenon headlamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4F). Note: Do not perform an engine wash before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine. 3. Open the hood. 4. Switch off the lights. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation, a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (thawing progress). Note: If there is no visible reduction in the formation of condensation, check the headlamp for a defect. (See Remedy 2) It is not physically possible to defog the headlamps completely. Fogging does not impair the operation or the service life of the headlamp. Remedy 2 A Damaged headlamp can be identified as follows: 1. Check the headlamp for external damage and that the cover caps and the diaphragm are correctly seated. 2. Check the electrical connectors of the plugs and pins. 3. Check for leak tightness in accordance with LI82.10-P-078307. The test can only be conducted on headlamps. 4. If the headlamp or the rear lamp has any external damage, replace the component part in accordance with the WIS instructions. Note: External damage to the headlamp/rear lamp or faulty seating of the cover caps does not present a warranty or goodwill case. With headlamps, it is possible to install desiccant packs if the problem occurs repeatedly. Open ventilation system: LI82.10-P-064766. Closed ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304

Cause Fogging of the rear lamps is a natural phenomenon, which can occur under certain climatic conditions. This does not lead to any technical impairment of the rear lamps. Remedy Rear lamp: Remedy 1: Clearing fogged/condensed rear lamps: 1. Drive the vehicle into the workshop (temperature higher than +18 C/+64.4 F) Note: Do not wash the vehicle or subject it to high-pressure cleaning before the defogging test. 2. Switch off the engine and connect battery support via a charger. 3. Open the trunk. 4. Switch on the exterior lighting. 5. Leave the vehicle in this state for 60 minutes. 6. Check for formation of condensation -> a significant reduction in the formation of condensation must be clearly recognizable (defogging progress).

The COMAND unit cannot be operated. Note: The problem disappears after a lengthy idle period (>6h) or after interrupting the power supply (circuit 30).

and/or The gear selection is displayed, but no gear is engaged. Gear selection is not possible. and/or Rear window wiper inoperative. and/or Various fault codes concerning disrupted communication paths are stored and/or the corresponding control units are not displayed in the quick test. Affected control units include the transmission control unit, electronic ignition lock, driver SAM, engine control unit, Lane Keeping Assist, Distronic.

Fault code 20BE1B and/or 20BD1B (The heating element of the AdBlue tank has a malfunction) is logged in the Blue-Tec control unit.

Fault code 20BE1B and/or 20BD1B (The heating element of the AdBlue tank has a malfunction) is logged in the Blue-Tec control unit.

WILL BE RETROFITTED WITH FOUR ADAPTER HARNESSES AS A PRECAUTIONARY MEASURE. MODELS 2005-2011 164, 171, 203, 204, 207, 209, 211, 212, 216. 219, 221, 230, 251, 463. *PE UPDATED 12/18/12. *PE UPDATED 3/18/2013 *JS

in the stowage compartment of the center console.

THE V BELT UPPER GUIDE PULLEY OPTIMIZED FOR NOISE REDUCTION IS AVAILABLE. THE DEALER WILL REPLACE UPPER GUIDE PULLEY AT THE NEXT WORKSHOP VISIT. *PE

Please note that if the complaint "Fuel filler flap not opening" occurs, it is important to check the fuel filler flap before replacing the central locking actuator. For gasoline hybrid vehicles where the fuel filler flap fails to open or does so but slowly, observe the document "Fuel filler flap fails to open or does so but slowly on plug-in HYBRID gasoline vehicles"! Cause Central locking actuator may have an electrical fault and may not open. Remedy 1. Car locked: To rule out incorrect operation, operate the fuel filler flap in the area shown in Fig. 1 and listen out for the clicking noise of the microswitch in the central locking actuator. If no clicking can be heard, continue with point 4. 2. Car unlocked: Press area on flap to start the microswitch clicking. Flap opens - show the customer the area to press. 3. Car unlocked: Flap cannot be opened regardless of which area you press. Open the flap by operating the emergency release for the CL actuator (through trunk, fender gap cover, etc, depending on specific vehicle) 4. Central locking actuator pressed directly, no clicking of microswitch, no electrical release of central locking actuator => Clicking of microswitch, electrical release of central locking actuator => Tank filler recess/charging recess not OK; report results via a TIPS case to B/C/E Inbox. 5. Replace central locking actuator; check function of new part before installing it: Do not dispose of damaged part. New central locking actuator does not release: More detailed examination of connector coupling, wiring harness, electrics required.

*RM

CHECK FUEL FILTER MODULE ASSEMBLY AND REPAIR OR REPLACE IF NECESSARY. MODELS 211 AND 219 AMG. MODEL YEARS 2003-2006. CSC WAS RECEIVED. *PE

*KB

THIS MAY BE CAUSED BY A FAULT IN THE FUEL LEVEL SENSOR FUNCTION CHAIN: HYDRAULIC AND ELECTRICAL LINES AND THEIR CONNECTIONS, REAR SAM OR INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. *TT UPDATED 2/23/09. *PE UPDATED 9/18/09. MODEL YEARS UNKNOWN. *PE

Washer fluid reservoir itself. 2. Seal on washer fluid pump/washer fluid reservoir. 3. Washer fluid pump. 3.1. Distributor housing leaks. 3.2. Pump fitting leaks. 3.3. Washer fluid hose cannot be snapped into place on pump fitting. 3.4. Washer fluid hose will not stay on pump fitting, although connector OK. 4. Washer fluid line. 4.1 Connector will not stay on pump fitting because it is broken. 4.2 Sealing ring in connector missing. 4.3 Sealing ring in connector fitted, but deformed and therefore leaks. 4.4 Damage to washer line by animal. 5. Seal on heating washer fluid reservoir/washer fluid reservoir. Remedy Replace defective component parts only. Do not replace any adjacent component parts that are intact. Note: Repair kits for washer line hoses do exist to allow patches for line damage.

In contrast to a leaky headlamp, physical fogging does not result in a technical impairment of the headlamp. A leak test must be performed to determine if physical fogging exists or if the headlamp is leaky. Remedy In advance, observe LI82.10-P-078301 "Headlamps or Front Fog Lamps Leaking or Fogged". 1. Prepare headlamp/check for external damage: For headlamps with a closed system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and check also for correct seating of the Gore-diaphragm/correct latching of the cover caps. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. For headlamps with an open system 1. Check the headlamps for any external damage and seal off the vent then make sure the cover caps are latched correctly into place. 2. If the headlamp exhibits any external damage, replace the headlamp. Note: A headlamp with external damage is not a warranty or goodwill case. 2. Leak test of headlamp with overpressure: Connect test adapter to pressure tester. (Figure 1) Check test adapter for leak tightness. To do so, connect plug and coupling (picture 2) and apply a maximum overpressure of 30 mbar. The pressure must remain constant. If the pressure does not remain constant, use a new adapter. Seal all the outlet openings using sealing compound and the given diaphragm with the plunger (picture 3). (Picture 4) Make allowance for the different headlamp variants here (there are different outlet openings). Check if the headlamp needs to be removed to gain access to the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. Plug the adapter onto the diagnostic socket on the headlamp housing. (Picture 5). Apply a maximum of 30 mbar overpressure to the headlamp housing. Note: If the maximum overpressure of 50 mbar is exceeded the headlamp seal will be damaged. If a pressure drop of less than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is not leaky and the problem is down to natural physical fogging. If a pressure drop of more than 10 mbar is measured within 30 seconds, the headlamp is leaky. Note: The leaky position can be localized with the aid of soap suds. Replace any leaky headlamps. Note: Desiccant packs can be installed for headlamps that are not leaky. See: LI82.10-P-064766 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - open ventilation system LI82.10-P-078304 Fogged headlamp, desiccant pack installed - closed ventilation system

to its core businesses, Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC (MBUSA) has entered into a Settlement regarding claims relating to allegations that the 590 Mars Red paint available as an original, exterior color option for certain models of Mercedes-Benz vehicles may experience peeling, flaking, or bubbling of the exterior paint or clear coat. This Mars Red paint is sometimes referred to as Fire Opal. The purpose of this update is to alert you that: 1. The Settlement has received final approval. The Settlement will go into effect on March 11, 2024. As of that date, customers are eligible to receive extended warranty coverage under the Settlement. 2. Under the Settlement, an eligible customer might receive extended warranty coverage as of the date the vehicle is presented to your dealership OR certain customers might have validated Qualified Future Repair claims, making them eligible for a different level of coverage. To determine if a customer: (a) is eligible for extended warranty coverage; and (b) what level of warranty coverage is available to them, please refer to the Service Packages section in VMI/Netstar. 3. Damage code 21800 (damage type 00) must be used for warranty claims covered pursuant to the Settlement. Please note that you should only claim for the percentage of warranty repair cost reflected in VMI/Netstar (see below, e.g., for Period Two, claim only 50% of warranty repair cost). 4. Before the dealership agrees to perform any work: The customer should be given a Repair Order containing: (1) an estimate for the repair, (2) the portion covered under the extended warranty; and (3) the customers contribution amount for the repair, if applicable. The customer must agree to pay their contribution amount for the repair and sign the Repair Order before the repair is performed.

*NJ

The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see picture file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir or shake it well (for at least 1 minute).

The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts

The clunk is heard once when changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to micromovement in the connection between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened and must be tightened to the specified torque. Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove outboard side shafts (extract outer joint gearing from wheel hub) 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") using Molykote and leave to dry for one hour in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

following fault codes: P060600, P072200, P072300, P072364, P072900, P073000, P073100, P073200, P073300, P073400, P073500, P076F00.

REPLACE PILOT BUSHING AT ELECTROHYDRAULIC UNIT. DAIMLER AG HAS DETERMINED THAT ON AFFECTED VEHICLES THE TRANSMISSION PILOT BUSHING MAY LEAK. DEALER WILL REPLACE TRANSMISSION PILOT BUSHING . *PE

Cause Due to its outlet openings, the headlamp is an "open system". This means that acidic gases, moisture, dirt and exhaust gases can penetrate into the headlamp. This can lead to the formation of condensation on the lens of the headlamp. The headlamps comply with all applicable US standards and regulations. Remedy Check housing cover of lamp unit for natural fogging or condensation as per LI82.10-P-078301. If a reduction in the degree of fogging is visible, the desiccant packs can be used once the condensation has completely evaporated. Note: Order service covers and desiccant packs based on the validity description. 1. Remove headlamps. 2. Remove all grommets from outlet openings. 3. Seal vent openings with sealing profile. Important: All openings must be sealed carefully for the pressure compensation diaphragm to work properly! 4. Remove existing service cover. 5. Place desiccant packs into the new service covers and bolt down (Picture_01). 6. Glue the new diaphragm onto the intended surface at the service cover (Picture_02). Note: The bonding surface must be clean and dry. 7. Attach service cover with desiccant pack at headlamp. 8. Install headlamp. To ensure that the desiccant pack (absorption) acts effectively, the headlamp has to be air-sealed. Observe or check the following points for this: 1. Seals at the central connector must all be present and correctly fitted (Picture_03). 2. The new transparent diaphragm must be correctly bonded (Picture_04). 3. Check headlamp housing for any external damage.

from the area of the ESP hydraulic unit

*RM

MODEL YEARS 2003-2009. *PE

interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: It is recommended to replace the cover caps. The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicles warranty in any way.

interference/background noises are audible to the called party during a call. It becomes increasingly difficult to understand as the speed rises. Cause A. Seating of the microphones in the headliner. Side edges are covered by the textile cover (see picture "1") B. Assembly of microphones (B25/20 or B25/21) in the headliner. C. Dirt inside the microphone housing Remedy 1. Press finger on rear of microphone (on adhesive tape) 2. Remove microphone cap from the front 3. Eliminate protruding material residues of the microphone cutout at the headliner, e.g. with a soldering iron. The microphone must be seated in the headliner as shown in picture "2". 4. Push microphone from behind until it is firmly pressed into the headliner 5. Maintain pressure and press/clip cap into microphone from the front. Note: The cover cap must be clearly heard and felt to engage. 6. This procedure must be carried out on both microphones (B25/20 and B25/21) Note: It is recommended to replace the cover caps. The non-woven cloth in the cover cap protects the microphone from soiling and must not be removed. NOTE: The information contained in this document is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge to properly and safely perform diagnosis and repairs on Mercedes-Benz vehicles, using Mercedes-Benz approved tools and equipment. It informs service technicians about conditions that could occur in certain vehicles and provides information that could assist in proper vehicle diagnosis, service, or repair. It does not indicate that a defect is present in any vehicle referenced in this document nor does it imply warranty coverage. DO NOT assume that a symptom or condition, or a described cause of a symptom or condition, affects any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles, or that a described repair applies to any particular vehicle or groups of vehicles. There can be multiple causes resulting in the same or similar symptoms or conditions described in this document, and trained professional service technicians must use their diagnostic skills to make evaluations on a case-by-case basis. The information contained in this document does not guarantee warranty coverage nor does it extend the vehicles warranty in any way.

informing them that they need to have an i-button call performed to ensure their mbrace device has registered with the Verizon Telematics systems. If the i-button call failed or if the customer was unable to perform the i-button call, the mbrace agent instructed the customer to make an appointment with their dealer to have the issue corrected and/or i-button call performed. The vehicles impacted range from model year 2002 to 2014.

periods of time (pressure marks). Objects wedged between the seat backrest and seat cushion (e.g. seat belt buckle). Light initial creases due to vehicle handling. Light creases in the outer covers originating from the production process (missing finish). Heat treatment of the seat covers using heat gun and plastic wedge. Be very careful to not overheat the seat material!

DIRT DEPOSITS ON THE SEAT BELT GUIDE DUE TO SOILED SEAT BELT. ALSO INCLUDED MODELS 169, F CELL, 246, AND 231. NO MODEL YEARS GIVEN. *JS

NO MODEL YEARS GIVEN. ALSO INCLUDED MODELS 168 AND 172. *JS

MODELS 203, 209, 210, 211, 215, 220, 230. MERCEDES BENZ. *KB UPDATED 5/13/09. *PE

*KB

The noise is heard once in each instance when changing direction of travel. Note: Sound file in attachment Cause If the complaint is eliminated by experimentally loosening the outboard collar nut (by 1 turn), the problem is due to cracking of the microweld between the wheel bearing inner race and the joint housing of the side shaft. Note: The collar nut must always be replaced after being loosened. See also LI33.20-P-078406 Remedy Coat contact surface of side shaft with wheel bearing with Molykote paint. To do this, proceed as follows: 1. Remove side shafts 2. Clean contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing before") before coating with Molykote, using "spirit" (free of dust and grease) 3. Coat contact surface A (see image file in attachment "Outer joint housing after") with Molykote and leave to dry for "one hour" in removed condition 4. Reinstall side shafts Note: Before using the antifriction coating (Molykote), stir it or shake it thoroughly for (at least 1 minute).

Edition animation.